I am a huge believer in and supporter of Biodynamic and Organic viticulture. I did not come to feel this way because of any trend in marketing that has happened over the last couple years. Rather I discovered it through my course of learning. As I learned more about the wines I had been drinking I realized that some my favorite wines up to that point had been produced with biodynamically or organically grown grapes, even though I did not know it at the time I was enjoying them.
Robert Sinskey was the first winery in California that I truly fell in love with. The first taste of their pinot blanc and I was smitten. After experiencing the vin gris of pinot noir, still the most beautiful rose I have ever had the pleasure of putting to my lips, I would have signed a commitment to drink only RSV for the rest of my life. If you have never tried a wine from Robert Sinskey Vineyards I would say drink them all for they are all delicious. Their slogan, if you will, is stated on the bottle..."Fine wines from organic vines" and they are indeed fine. I stumbled upon RSV 5 years ago and it was the begining of a journey and obsession that will never end.
Along with Sinskey over the years I have been lucky enough to have had the pleasure of experiencing many wines that were made with biodynamically grown grapes. Domaine Tempier, Zind-Humbricht, Porter-Bass, Sineann (Resonance Vnyd), and Domaine Leroy are just a few. These were by no means the only wines I have enjoyed, but they are some of the ones that floored me. These, as Mr. Parker would say, are my reference points. These wines tell a story...they sing...they dance...they have personalities, they are distinct. I did not know about the growing practices when I first fell in love with these wines, but looking back I can see a common thread of greatness in them all. Once I discovered this connection I began trying to find out everything I could about the way these wines were made.
At first I was hardcore. I made up my mind that I would only drink biodynamic wines because they had to be better. The more I drank and the more I learned I discovered that you could still make a great wine using chemicals and you could still make a shitty wine incorporating biodynamic principles. Being based in Santa Barbara I have access to a few local organic and biodynamically farmed vineyards. I have to say honestly I have been disappointed more often than not and it really made me think more about the role and absolute importance of these emerging movements.
As with anything we can not understand the importance of biodynamic farming unless we view it in the context of the larger wine making picture as related to terroir. The first thing you need to make great wine is great grapes. You get great grapes by thoughtful, loving, wise farming. More than the technique I have discovered that it is best described as a loving relationship between the land and the farmer. Organic or biodynamic farming is just a small part of the picture. Pruning, canopy management, amount of grapes harvested per acre, sugar levels (potential alcohol) at harvest, acid levels at harvest, and water regimen all also affect the quality of the grapes and I believe fall out of the umbrella that encompasses a farming label.
Further more, the certification process, as with anything, can be manipulated and will almost certainly morph into yet another way for someone to make a profit. I do want to know what is being done to the grapes I will ultimately drink, but I will not reject a wine because chemicals have been used. In order to understand a wine you must understand how it was raised, but I do not believe organic or biodynamic farming essential to make a wine that expresses terrior. That being said I do believe it is the best way to farm anything.
It is in light of these discoveries that I take the middle road. Moderation is the best approach with anything. To say you will only drink an organic wine is like saying that you will only hang out with people who do not take prescription medicine. I would prefer not to put any chemicals into my body, but if I can not get rid of a cold with Vitamin C I have been known to take an antibiotic. We should view chemicals in the vineyard the same way.
A loving farmer would never give his vines anything to hurt them, but in order to promote their best health he may see the need for a chemical or two, in moderation of course. In a perfect world I would like all vineyards to be farmed according to organic and biodynamic principles, but it is not a perfect world so I simply ask that farmers be thoughtful and forthcoming with their vineyard practices. Help your vines produce the best possible grapes and be a good steward of your land. Study all thoughts and philosophies of farming. Just tell us what you are doing and why.
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