We all know that wine was meant to be enjoyed in conjunction with food. We have heard it over and over and while wine can and should be enjoyable on its own, something happens when it is allowed to partner with its soul mate. I have always been aware of this and loved the interaction and dance that ensues when enjoying food and wine together. The problem today is that most wines are not destined to be enjoyed on the table. If you have read much of my blog, you will see a couple themes that remain constant and are threaded into almost every post that I write. I prefer my wines to be low in alcohol, but not just for the sake of being low in alcohol. I believe that grapes picked at the perfect balance point between sugar and acid are not only essential for expressing terroir, but also for the ability to age gracefully and to properly interact with food. I am also adamantly opposed to any additions that are foreign to wine or to the use of technology to alter wine in any way.
The first day in New York we wanted to see as much of the city as possible. We started south near the Statue of Liberty and then began to walk north into Wall Street. Searching for a place to eat lunch we stumbled onto this street filled with tables and umbrella's that was home to many restaurants. We decided on Adrienne's Pizza Bar, and ordered a couple gourmet pizza's to share between the four of us. My family does not share the same passion and obsession for food and wine as I and since no one else was drinking at lunch I tried to decide which wine I was going to enjoy with our pizza. My mind immediately went to the Barbera, but for some reason I was drawn to the Nebbiolo. Peidmont is probably my favorite all time wine region and Barolo my favorite wine. Not the modern Barolo's which are over-extracted and filled with nothing but fruit and tannin, but the old school floral, complex, tarry, dense wines. Looking at the list which did not name producers, I knew that for $9 in New York I would not be getting the most profound expression of the Nebiolo grape, but nonetheless had to give it a go. When the waiter brought me the wine I was not disappointed because I was trying not to have any preconceived notions of what to expect. As is often the case though, I began comparing it in my mind to the memory of all the other Nebbiolo's I have experienced over the years.
It was not a "bad" wine by any means, but was very lean, quite acidic and almost astringent in taste. I figured oh well, at least it was not going to overwhelm the pizza I was going to enjoy it with. Then it happened. The pizza arrived with sausage, fennel, and onion. I took the first bite and then a sip of wine and something amazing happened. No longer was the wine astringent. As the acid, fruit, and spice in the wine began to intermingle with the fennel, sausage, and onion they were both transformed in a way that is difficult for me to both comprehend and explain. It was wonderful and I savored every bite and every sip not wanting their beautiful dance to end. This Nebiolo, of which I still do not know the producer, was in an instance transformed from a mediocre wine to a great wine simply by the addition of a slice of simple pizza. Not to mention I was in great company and in a great atmosphere.
This is exactly the reason why I am encouraging people to re-evaluate the way we as a culture look at and think about wine. Wine was made for the table and made to be enjoyed with friends. Stop following points and scores and find the producers who are crafting wine in an honest and soulful fashion. Staying true to the soul of the vine is more important that trying to obtain a certain taste or flavor. If the wine is made from well balanced grapes then their will be something to be enjoyed. It may not be what you are told is enjoyable by the wine media, but if you come with no expectations and partner the wine with a simple meal and great friends it will transform into a great wine. The people we support are going to pave the path for the wine made available for us to drink in the future. I am tired of all the high alcohol, fruit bombs that have no place on the table and will not age gracefully. We will also find that this is the only way to find the true "Grand Cru" vineyards. Not all land is suitable for making profound wines. Until we strip down all the fruit and alcohol we will never know which ones truly are.
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